Discussion in ' High Performance Modifications ' started by yocmleerOct 11, Oct 11, 1. Messages: 96 Likes Received: 0. Oct 11, 2. Messages: 18, Likes Received: Oct 11, 3. Messages: 1, Likes Received: 0. My Buddy here is getting Hp out of a With a stick in the car at lbs, he is running So yes it can be done. Oct 11, 4. Messages: 4, Likes Received: 4.
In some circles, a hp is considered a relatively low power motor. Oct 11, 5. Oct 11, 6. You should probably take some time and examine what comforts and conveniences you are willing to give up to have a HP motor.
And also take into account whether or not it is going to be something that you want to actually enjoy sporting around town with. Just as a point, I had a lot more fun with my car before I put this new motor in it. Oct 11, 7. Messages: 25 Likes Received: 0. Oct 12, 8. Messages: 40 Likes Received: 0. You have some very good parts, thats in your favor.
The camshaft and intake choice will be critical in the 'manners' your engine will have. Oct 12, 9. Messages: 9, Likes Received: 2. You will need headwork and the correct cam and induction system to get a true HP The compression is an important step to getting the performance you want, and as some others have eluded to, streetability is a huge consideration.
All things considered, you can accomplish what you want, but you can do a much better job by building a bigger engine and running less radical camming and driveline components. The choice is yours. Oct 12, The car will be for short cruises anyway. Don't plan on any road trips with it. I can deal with quite a bit of driveability issues as long as the car screams when I hit the gas.
Would an auto be better with this set up or a stick? I was leaning in the direction of a TKO five speed. You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Share This Page Tweet. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account?Regardless of the larger target of extracting big power from your engine build is the primary goal of building a well-tuned combination that provides strong performance across the rpm band.
And as every magazine story, blog post, and YouTube video will tell you, no single component will provide the catalyst for perfect performance. The camshaft is obviously one of the biggies and so is the carburetor. For example: a typical ci small-block—a 0. So, for that engine, the cfm rating translates to real-world cfm on a stock combination; cfm on a mildly built engine; and cfm on a high-compression, high-performance combination.
None, however, takes into account other factors such as the intake manifold—low-rise vs. Heck, the weight of the car and even the axle gearing and torque converter stall speed can affect the optimal carb choice.
And you probably want an electric. The Edelbrock carburetors have a secondary air door, on Performer Series carbs they have a counterweighted, non-adjustable door below the secondary boosters, and the Thunder Series carbs have a secondary air door that is spring loaded and adjustable above the secondary boosters.
With all the caveats regarding applications, we wanted to boil down the carburetor conundrum and took the easy way out: We enlisted experts Smitty Smith from Edelbrock and Blane Burnett from Holley for recommendations on the optimal carburetor choices for five theoretical engine builds, ranging from small-blocks to big-blocks and to the increasingly popular LS swap.
Again, there could be differences depending on the vehicles the engines would go in, but their input provides a good, general overview for carb selections used mostly on the street and occasionally on the strip. Standard disclaimers apply: Your mileage may vary, ask your doctor before using heavy machinery, offer void in Tennessee, and so on. On the street or strip, proper carburetor selection is essential for optimal performance.
Volumetric efficiency is higher in a high-performance engine, where the right camshaft and complementing components do a better job of moving air in and out of it. High compression has a big effect on volumetric efficiency, too, as the added squeeze delivers more power, thus greater efficiency, than a comparably sized, lower-compression combination. Between the primary performance carburetor manufacturers Holley and Edelbrock, only Holley offers models with mechanical secondary circuits.
They would be from the legendary Double Pumper range. The basic Holley carburetor four-barrel family includes the smaller and series and the larger, series, commonly known as the Dominator. The series shown here is the more performance-oriented version of the smaller carbs, thanks to a secondary metering block with removable jets.
Although Holley and Edelbrock performance carburetors are delivered pretty much ready to run out of the box, some adjustments to the fuel curve may be required. Power valves and jets can be swapped in the Holleys seen herewhile in the Edelbrock carbs, metering rods with jets perform the same function.
There is a wider array of tuning possibilities with the Holley carbs, but the Edelbrock design is generally easier to work with and make adjustments. Forced-induction engines have unique carburetor requirements. In a naturally aspirated engine, the engine will drop to nearly zero vacuum under wide open throttle WOT. That, in turn, opens the power valve to enrich the mixture.
We start off with an entry-level buildup—one that countless enthusiasts embark on every year. With that in mind, our theoretical small-block would wear an aluminum dual-plane intake atop a set of breathed-on heads and a mild roller camshaft.
Nothing exotic or pricey—just a straightforward, affordable combination for a second-gen Camaro, C10 or G-body.2009 Honda Civic Si Night Drive POV - 283HP (Binaural Audio)
Smitty Smith Edelbrock : For an everyday driver small-block like this, a Performer Series cfm carb is suggested—either PN with a manual choke or PN with an electric choke.Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Send Private Topic View Profile. I would like to keep the simply because it's there, it's in good shape, and its original to the truck. And because of the high RPMs these little guys can pull.
I would simply like to increase the power as much as I can while still retaining some sort of fuel economy. Great advice from Vaughn. Interesting suggestion from Bob. Would work with pistons, but you'd want to get the entire rotating assembly balanced.
And use a larger vibration damper. If going up in size to a is going to make that huge of a difference I just found a good block sitting in my back shed.
I talked to a guy my dad is good friends with he used to build race motors for carroll shelbyand he told me that building up a would only be worth it in a lighter car. Now to get this block ready. If I might make a suggestion: A kit is a good idea if you are going to rebuild the It incorporates a longer stroke crankshaft - which will cause the piston to spend more time at TDC during combustion.
This causes two things to happen - it ends up getting more power out of the combustion event, and it reduces overall fuel consumption.
It also gives the crank a longer lever arm, so torque output from each combustion event is higher. I am going to assume that your is a 2 piece rear main seal, and has 76cc heads basically a 70s to 86 with large chamber heads. I am also going to assume you want to reuse the stock flywheel and manual trans.
This essentially means that you have a 2 piece rear main seal type of block, and you need to have an internally balanced assembly no balance weights on the damper or flywheel as in externally balanced motors so you can use the original flywheel. It is a kit with 2 piece rear main and internally balanced, with a relatively low compression ratio using 76 cc heads so you can use regular gas.
There are other products out there that are cheaper, but since this comes from a reputable company Jegsyou can count on their customer service if there is a problem with any of the rotating assembly parts. This is actually a bigger issue than it should be - there are some fly-by-night rotating assembly companies out there that will take your money and run.
A kit is a good idea if you are going to rebuild the How hard would it be to get these figures from a ? Would it be possible without killing the engine?
And yes I know, theres no replacement for displacement, but I'm looking for some gas mileage and high revs. Small displacement doesn't always mean better mileage. You could achieve those specs on a with either forced induction or an almost race setup engine.
What you would end up with would be a very expensive, high compression NA engine with probably a very steep power curve. I would suggest calling a well recognized engine building company and discussing it with them. Even if you are going to build it yourself just pretend you are interested in buying one.
If you ask the right questions and they are in the know you will get your questions answered. Also what kind of you revs are you looking for? Getting a built smallblock to hit isn't very hard its just expensive. If I were you I would abandon your two concerns, hp and fuel economy is an oxymoron and highrevs seem attractive but the reality of it is that high winding v8's are expensive and you will get used to your engine's character anyways. Build your engine around your budget, drivetrain and gear ratio selections, and the weight and general application of your car.
If you match all of these up your will be happier with the end result.
I would drop the like a bad habit. I can understand wanting a high reving engine, that may not be practical on a pump gas street engine though. If you are going to go with a sbc, you should at least use the general standard entry level displacement small blocka Most people on this forum gave me the same responses when I started asking about my I plan to build.
Seems everyone wants to change your mind as oppose to giving you answers to your question Yes, a will get better mileage.
It has a smaller bore so it will have less area for friction. It is shorter stroke, so it will have less loss there. Bottom line, the will have a much lower BSFC if built right. You will get better gas mileage, 5 mpg or so can make quite a difference.I just got a 74 nova and my mechanic said it was a First, if you have a 74 NOVA you do not have an "original" The 74 Nova came with or small block engines.
A has the same bore as the and the stroke of a If you have a 64 Nova, then a is possible. How much power from a ? How much money do you want to spend?
You can make a lot more power with Turbo, Nitrous or other "boost" maker and a lot more money. However, since the engine is not likely original if it is athen put a late model ZZ4 or similar engine in it and forget it. Like the others said, the was no longer produced after So you cannot keep it original.
The most hp ever produced by an original was the hp version in the Corvette. It was a fuel injection engine.
283 Chevy Engine Specs
You can't keep it original! There was no in Last year for the was So that was swapped into your car or your mechanic don't have a clue.
For a street type build, mile cam, 9. That depends upon many factors. If there are no other mods, a. Update: like many of you said, I thought the same thing, but I will have the machine shop check it. Answer Save. Michael Lv 4. Chevy Horsepower. Samboski Lv 5. In the nova was only offered with a straight 6cyl, and a v8 For what came stock in the car Check your vin5th digit is your engine code. How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer.
Frank F Lv 5.
Choosing the Correct Carburetor for Five Common Engine Combinations
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